The Introduction "Is the food they serve at Chinese restaurants the same as the food you eat at home?" As a Chinese native, I am frequently asked of the above question, and my answer is typically - "no." However, I would subsequently add, "different parts of China eats different styles of food that are prepared using different methods and materials, for example, techniques that are passed down by their elders, and ingredients that are indigenous to their area." Through the years, each province of China has developed and honed local dishes that each region is famed for. For instance, you have probably heard of Beijing's world-renowned roasted duck, 北京烤鸭 (Běi Jīng Kǎo Yā), better known as Beijing Duck in America. They say if you go to Shanghai, you have to try Shanghai's 小笼包 (Xiǎo Lóng Bāo), or mini, steamed pork buns. I have also heard great things about Hong Kong's 鲜虾馄饨面 (Xiān Xiā Hún Tún Miàn), or egg noodle with shrimp wontons soup. These are some examples of local food that each of the aforementioned cities had perfected. Signature dishes, you might call them. Today, I am going to introduce to you guys some delicious local food that are unique to my home city, Fuzhou, Fujian, China, and where to find the most authentic ones in Flushing, Queens. Before We Begin - a Chinese Lesson Before we begin talking about food, I want to do a quick discussion on the following word: 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī). Not as much the 北京烤鸭 (Běi Jīng Kǎo Yā), however, in China, the previously noted 小笼包 (Xiǎo Lóng Bāo) and 鲜虾馄饨面 (Xiān Xiā Hún Tún Miàn) are commonly referred to as 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) particular respectively to Shanghai and Hong Kong. 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) literally translates to "little eating." Google Translate designates "snack" as its translation. However, when I think of snack, I think of chips and cookies. I don't think of cooked food as a snack. In my opinion, "snack" does not accurately embody the essence of the word, 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī). 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) is less than a meal, but more than a snack. It can be prepared quickly. 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) that cannot be prepared quickly can be prepared in large portion in one setting. 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) are generally consumed in the morning as breakfast or late night as fourth meal. The Participants I moved to Flushing, Queens last March from Boston. Through the year I lived in Flushing - I have since moved to Lower East Side, Manhattan - I discovered four Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) restaurants. The four restaurants are as follow: Participant 1: 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī) Address: 41-42 A, Main Street, Flushing, Queens, 11355 Direction: 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī) is located inside of the Friendship Plaza. It is the last shop at the end of the long corridor. Participant 2: 金峰声点鱼丸小吃 (Jīn Fēng Shēng Diǎn Yú Wán Xiǎo Chī) Address: 41-40, Main Street, Flushing, Queens, 11355 Direction: There are two restaurants located inside of the building. 金峰声点鱼丸小吃 (Jīn Fēng Shēng Diǎn Yú Wán Xiǎo Chī) is located near the entrance of the building. Participant 3: 老王记 (Lǎo Wáng Jì) Address: 41-28, Main Street, Flushing, Queens, 11355 Direction: The restaurant is located inside of the Golden Shopping Mall. If I remember correctly, it is the fifth shop on the left of the long corridor. Participant 4: 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī) Address: 41-28, Main Street, Flushing, Queens, 11355 Direction: Do not pay attention to the address listed above. While it is the address that was noted at the front of their restaurant, the establishment is actually located on 41st Road, off Main Street. Look for the Q58 bus stop. The restaurant is located closeby. There are two restaurants located inside of the buiding. 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī) is located on the right. The Entries 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) literally translates to "flat meat." It is our version of the wonton. However, it is different from the wontons from your neighborhood Chinese restaurant that the skin of the dumpling is notably thinner, practically see through after it is cooked. On the other hand, similar to the wontons from your neighborhood Chinese restaurant, we use pork filling. However, most Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) restaurant does not fill up our version of the wonton as thick, hence the name of the dish, "flat meat." Some have give the dish the American name, Fuzhou Styled Mini Wonton. The pork filling is also flavored differently. Exactly how they taste different is a little hard to describe in words. The wontons are typically served in pork broth, topped with chopped scallion. All four restaurants listed above have 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) on their menu. However, all four restaurants prepare the dish a little differently. My favorite happens to be from 老王记 (Lǎo Wáng Jì). 老王记 (Lǎo Wáng Jì)'s 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) stands out that their chef uses more pork fat in the wonton's filling. Because of the pork fat, their 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) is more "chewy", for the lack of better word. And for those who have never had pork fat - as unhealthy as it is - it is heavenly delicious. 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī)'s 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) comes in second. It has an ovearall - again, for the lack of better word - "homely" taste. 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī)'s 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) comes in third. The broth of the wonton soup made a positive impression the first time I had it. The wontons, however, were not as memorable. While it is usual for 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) to have thin fillings. 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī)'s 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu)'s fillings were almost non-existent. In addition, 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī)'s 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) uses only lean meat. 金峰声点鱼丸小吃 (Jīn Fēng Shēng Diǎn Yú Wán Xiǎo Chī)'s 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) was not remarkable. It was neither awful nor tasty. A bowl of 扁肉 (Biǎn Ròu) in Flushing costs somewhere between $2.00 - $2.50. 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) I have looked for thirteen years - that is the number of years I have lived in the US - for that perfect plate of 拌面 (Bàn Miàn), and I finally found it at 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī) in Flushing, Queens. I am not even going to bother discussing 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) from the other three restaurants. They do not measure to par. 拌面 (Bàn Miàn), in its essence, is boiled Chinese noodle - I am not sure of the name of the type of Chinese noodle that is commonly or traditionally used for the dish. In addition, different Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) restaurants in the States use different kinds of Chinese noodle for the dish - mixed in soy sauce and peanut butter sauce and topped with scallion. The key to an exemplary plate of 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) is attaining that delicate balance between the saltiness of the soy sauce and the sweetness of the peanut butter sauce, and 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī) mastered that fine equilibrium so brilliantly. In addition to the soy sauce and the peanut butter sauce, it seemed like, or it tasted like - I should say - that the chefs at 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī) also added either sesame oil or pork fat to the dish, positively enhancing its aroma and taste. All in all, 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī)'s 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) is the best of its kind around. No Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) restaurant in the Boston and New York area comes close. To add here, I would also like to commend 长乐桂珍小吃 (Chǎng Lè Guì Zhēn Xiǎo Chī) for not mixing their sauce for the 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) ahead of cooking. Many Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) restaurants blend batches of soy sauce and peanut butter sauce mix days in advance for efficiency over quality, resulting in a poo-like paste that for whatever reason is always too salty. Most importantly, that is not how 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) is traditionally prepared. A plate of 拌面 (Bàn Miàn) in Flushing costs somewhere between $2.00 - $2.50. 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu) 芋头 (Yù Tóu), or taro, is a member of the potato family. (Well, I have always associated taro with the potato family.) It is sweet, similar to a sweet potato. Unlike a sweet potato, however, a taro's sweetness is more sophisticated with layers of flavors, while a sweet potato's sweetness is rather straightforward. It is hard to put taro's goodness in words, hence the sophistication. Physically, a taro resembles a coconut. Its meat is tinted with a shade of lavender. 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu), or deep-fried taro, is another classic Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī). You really cannot go wrong with anything deep-fried. However, there are standouts even in the realm of the best. I discovered two restaurants during my stay in Flushing, Queens that make 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu). The two restaurants are located next to each other. One of the restaurants was 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī) as listed above. I had my initial doubts about 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī)'s 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu). The color of the skin of the 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu) was lighter than how I remembered. The breading seemed too thin. My suspicion, however, did not last long. I was swiftly converted from a skeptic to a fan. 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī)'s 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu) tasted better than I had ever expected. Unlike the 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu) I tried next door or the ones I had in Manhattan, the breading of 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī)'s 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu) was spiced, providing it with a boost of flavor. All in all, if you are looking for a place that makes delicious 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu), 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī) in Flushing, Queens is the place to go. A 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu) in Flushing costs somewhere between $0.75 - $1.00. 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) 海蛎 (Hǎi Lì) and 饼 (Bǐng) respectively translates to "oyster" and "cracker." Now a days, however, oysters are not commonly found in 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng). I called my grandma a few weeks back asking how the aforementioned Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) received its name. My grandma explained that way back in the day, oysters were used for the 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī). However, it was not as popular back then with the added seafood, in addition to an increase in production value, and therefore an increase in selling price. Through the years, use of oysters was diminished. The name of the 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī), however, was kept till this day. As previously mentioned, it is rare to find 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) these days that are prepared with oysters. However, I have discovered two shops in Manhattan, since my move, that make the 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) with the seafood. Growing up, there were two kinds of 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) that I was familiar with. One type of 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) has cabbage filling. It is the most common type. The other type of 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) has cabbage and pork filling, specifically pork belly meat. I have not encountered the latter type of 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) beyond the boundary of my village. The ones that you will most likely find in Fuzhou 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) restaurant in the city are the ones with cabbage filling, for the exception of one of the two restaurants mentioned prior that makes 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) with cabbage and oyster filling. You have to request to have 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) made with oyster in the other restaurant. To describe 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) simply, it has a deep-fried shell as pictured with different kinds of fillings. It is usually topped with three peanuts. Back in the day, the peanuts were utilized to distinguish the various kinds of 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng). I discovered two restaurants during my stay in Flushing, Queens that make 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng), the same two restaurants that make 炸芋头 (Zhà Yù Tóu). Of the two restaurants, 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī)'s 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) was significantly better. It was not mind blowing, however, the restaurant did a good job retaining that classic taste. A 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) in Flushing costs somewhere between $0.75 - $1.00. 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) Google translates 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) as "shrimp cake." Shrimp, however, is not one of the ingredients of 虾酥 (Xiā Sū). I also asked my grandma regarding the origin of the 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī)'s name. My grandma was not sure about this one.
虾酥 (Xiā Sū) is essentially a type of 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng) with a different name. It has a hole in its center, resembling a fried donut. Unlike 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng), however, it does not have fillings. 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) is a common breakfast food in many Fuzhou household. It is usually consumed as a side dish to congee or a soup based 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī). My grandma was explaining to me that the same flour mix used for 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng)'s shell is used to make 虾酥 (Xiā Sū). 虾酥 (Xiā Sū), however, tastes very different from 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng). I personally prefer 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) over 海蛎饼 (Hǎi Lì Bǐng). 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī) is the only restaurant I found in Flushing that makes 虾酥 (Xiā Sū). I do not recall if the restaurant next door makes 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) as well. 家乡福州小吃 (Jiā Xiāng Fú Zhōu Xiǎo Chī)'s 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) perfectly captured that classic 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) taste that I remembered so distinctly from the last time I had 小吃 (Xiǎo Chī) while I was visiting China. Three 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) in Flushing costs $1.00. A 虾酥 (Xiā Sū) is $0.50. Next So, this write-up took significantly longer than I expected. I started preparing for this entry roughly four months ago, right after I finished the entry on my Thailand trip. I am hoping to share shorter posts more regularly from here on.
4 Comments
Jo
8/23/2021 03:09:21 pm
Hey I'm fuzhounese and craving for the oyster cake. Where do you find the good ones in Chinatown wih the seafood? Have you came across any on 8th Ave Brooklyn?
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10/19/2022 03:51:17 pm
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